Monday, April 09, 2007



Yet another picturesque landscape shot. I know that after awhile, these all start to look the same, but if you look closely you'll see the rainbow arching across the sky. We're just getting into the rainy season, which is playing hell with the roads (shock-surprise!), but which is providing some beautiful views when 4 o'clock rain showers clear into 5:30 rainbows.



What I was up to over the last ten days was a census of all of the "inkangitie" or homesteads in two of the administrative sublocations in my study area; I'm going to add a third in the next few weeks. An "enkang" (singular) is a circular enclosure containing several usually households; usually several wives of the same man, but occasionally also married sons, brothers, or friends of the head of the enkang. I decided to do the census because it seemed like a lot of political authority in the pastoralist communities I've been studying (mostly Maasai, but also Samburu, Somali, and Turkana) operates at the level of very small groupings of 4-8 inkangitie- essentially small "neighborhoods" within administrative sublocations. That is rather than being organized clearly into large tribes or villages headed by chiefs, the relevant authority seems to be vested in the elders living in a particular "neighborhod". In order to start documenting how governance works at the neighborhood level, I decided to first map out all of the neighborhoods in three sublocations (two which are two different Maasai communities, the Mumonyot and Digiri, and one which is predominantly Samburu). Using GPS readers, my enumerators and I marked the location of each and every Enkang in the first two areas (146 enkang in all) and recorded a range of basic descriptive measures for each homestead including clan, subclan, number of wives, number of children, etc. We also collected questions that were designed to give a snapshot of political leadership in each neighborhood. My intuition from the first set of interviews with the old folks was that there is variation between Maasai and Samburu communities in how neighborhoods are composed and in what rules govern social interactions; this census data should allow me to take a first swing at starting to test this hunch more systematically.



Luckily, this broken down vehicle wasn't mine... in order to try to avoid the transportation mishaps that have defined the first portion of my trip, I sprung for a 6 day rental of a pretty nice land cruiser; it fit my research team comfortably, dealt with the shitty roads admirably, and didn't break down even once. Also it had no sheep inside it, which is always a plus.




and finally... BABOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONS!!!!!!

stay tuned for complete wedding and circumcision coverage, as well as a special photo feature called "the puppies of Maasailand".

4 comments:

mpc said...

I'm waiting with baited breath and aching area for the circumcision coverage.

how close were you to those baboons? 20 feet? You do know that they could eff you up, right? too close for comfort?

Hopefully there won't be shots of the circumcisions that are too close for comfort.

Ryan Sheely said...

i have no shots of the actual operation itself, as that would have just been too obnoxious. in addition, i was cringing so much that it would have been impossible to get a steady shot.

I was indeed 20 feet or less from those baboons; luckily it was a quasi-controlled environment. This troop of baboons has been studied by the last 20 years or so by this American primatologist; she currently has a team of like 3-4 students who watch them every day, so they're really familiar with white dudes hanging around. I happened to be passing by when one of the students (who i've met around town) was with them, so I got a tour and got introduced to the "whole gang". i'll post some more of the pics sometime soon.

Jordan Stokes said...

But are there up-close pictures of the fried meat soaked in blood? And was it delicious? I think you understand the geopolitical importance of this issue, Ryan.

MBlinks said...

Have you seen any monkeys with red asses?